Twenty-four hours of travel from Toronto to Johannesburg (with stopovers in New York City and Nairobi) vaccines fresh in my arm, dreams of African sunsets dancing in my mind. This is how our epic adventure began, with equal parts exhaustion and exhilaration as my wife Nicola and I checked into the Peermont Metcourt Hotel at Emperors Palace, knowing tomorrow would change everything.

Four hours northeast of Johannesburg lies a slice of untamed Africa that redefined my understanding of wilderness. The N’dhula Tented Lodge on Likweti Bushveld Farm Estate wasn’t just accommodation, it became my gateway to experiencing the raw magnificence of the African bush. As our transfer vehicle wound through the scenic route to White River/Mbombela, I shared the palpable excitement with fellow adventurers from Canada, the US, and UK, all embarking on their first safari experience.

The lodge struck the perfect balance between luxury and authenticity. Canvas walls sheltered king-sized comfort while the absence of WiFi and television gently nudged me toward the real entertainment—the symphony of the African night and gin cocktails infused with indigenous flavors that I’ll never forget.

But it was the 765-hectare property that first hinted at the magic ahead. Part macadamia plantation, part wildlife preserve, this working farm showcased Africa’s gentler side. I watched zebras graze alongside giraffes while impalas bounded gracefully through the late afternoon light. The evening tour culminated atop a cliff where I witnessed the African sunset perform its daily masterpiece—a blazing canvas of orange and purple hues that my photographs simply cannot capture.

Then came the main event: Kruger National Park.

Entering through the Numbi gate at dawn, I joined an exclusive club of hunters (not with rifles) but with cameras and an insatiable hunger for the Big Five (Lions, Tigers, Water Buffalo, Rhinos, Hippopotamus and Elephants). The weather gods tested our resolve with steady rain, but our seasoned guide navigated these 20,000 square kilometres like ancient pathways to his soul.

The radio crackled to life “Hyenas resting, coordinates following.” Our Land Rover lurched forward, and suddenly we were part of an intricate network of guides sharing intelligence across the vast park. It felt like conservation meets technology, creating opportunities to spot our quarry over great distances as the animals migrated to seek shelter from the elements or food.

What unfolded next read like a David Attenborough documentary, except we were living it. A pack of hyenas, still lazy from their nocturnal hunt, lounged roadside without concern for human presence. Then the radio buzzed again—leopard sighting. Racing through muddy tracks, we arrived to witness nature’s most elusive cat methodically consuming a gazelle it had dragged high into an acacia tree. The circle of life wasn’t a Disney concept here; it was true to life feast happening right before our eyes.

Lions appeared next, majestic and unperturbed by my convoy of vehicles documenting their every move. Elephants lumber past with ancient wisdom in their eyes, while hippos grunted territorial warnings from their watering hole sanctuary. I felt small and privileged simultaneously.

Only the rhinos remained hidden—not from shyness, but from necessity. Park rangers constantly relocate these magnificent creatures to stay ahead of poachers, a sobering reminder that even in protected spaces, conservation remains a daily battle. The glimpse of police tape and a white sheet covering human remains served as grim evidence of this ongoing war – a poacher who met justice in its most primitive form. It shook me more than I expected.

As evening approached and Castle beer flowed at the lodge, my conversations drifted between awe and introspection. we’d witnessed the raw power of Africa, yes, but also its vulnerability. The contrast between a leopard’s primal feast and the clinical precision required to protect rhinos from human greed created a complex emotional landscape that luxury couldn’t fully cushion.

The following day we ventured into town of White River nearby for some sights an souvenirs and and happened on The White River History & Motor Museum which was an unexpected surprise and a delight being a car enthusiast; the classic Triumphs and Aston Martins and the rare 1936 Jaguar SS100 on display offered a gentler reflection on human ingenuity. We returned to the resort at dusk and went walking on the grounds we encountered a flock of zebras who scattered at we approached, spooked by Nicola and I as we approached, I realized Africa had already changed me.

This wasn’t just tourism; it was transformation. The African bush stripped away my pretenses, revealing both nature’s magnificence and humanity’s complicated relationship with it. As I prepared for Cape Town, Kruger’s lessons echoed: true luxury isn’t thread count or champagne service—it’s the privilege of witnessing a world where survival remains beautifully, brutally authentic.

The Big Five became more than a checklist for me; they were ambassadors for a continent that demanded my respect, understanding, and protection. My safari had ended, but my relationship with Africa had just begun.