Leaving Mandeville, we headed back to Kingston with plans I’d been anticipating: meeting my wife’s cousin who wanted to take us to Bath in St. Thomas Parish, home of the legendary Bath Fountain.

Located in eastern Jamaica, the hot springs were discovered—according to legend—in the 17th century when a runaway slave discovered the natural healing properties in the hot springs and mineral-rich mud. Over time, this discovery developed into a spa town that still operates today.

We arrived at the Bath Fountain Hotel and met Patrick, a local Rastafarian who, for a fee, led us on a trek through the woods to the hot springs’ source. Once there, we changed and met several of his colleagues whose job was giving us the most intense detoxifying massage I’ve ever experienced.

The combination of mineral-enriched mud, pimento-infused eucalyptus oil, hot stones, hot water emanating from stone, and cold water from a nearby waterfall created a unique spa experience unlike anything I’d encountered. If I had to compare it, I’d say it combined hot stone, Swedish, and Shiatsu massage all in one.

The ritual began with a cold plunge in the flowing stream. Then towels that had been soaking in hot water were used to raise our body temperature. Next, mineral-rich mud was applied all over our bodies, left to harden for several minutes—sucking out toxins like a full-body mud mask. From there, another dip in the cold plunge to wash off, then over to a large flat rock where we laid face-down to have hot stones applied directly to our skin.

What followed was what I can only describe as a towel wash, then massage, then the pimento-infused eucalyptus oil, and finally ten minutes sitting under the rushing waterfall. I’ve had all these treatments individually, but never in an open, nature-filled environment. Suffice it to say, I felt like a whole new person when I left. Money well spent.

We left the south coast carrying a bunch of memorable experiences, not knowing then how devastated all these places would be by Hurricane Melissa less than a year later. Patrick the Rastafarian, Sam our Black River Safari guide, Patricia at Little Ochie—they all ensured our Jamaican experience was truly unique. I hope they’ve all recovered and rebuilt.

The drive from St. Thomas to Hopewell in Hanover Parish, where my mother lives, took us through Morant Bay. We stopped briefly to observe the birthplace of Paul Bogle, a Jamaican national hero who was accused, tried, and hanged for starting the “Morant Bay Rebellion.” Despite being a heritage site, it’s in complete disrepair—unfortunate, but I felt compelled to pay homage to someone whose life ended standing up for others’ rights.

The journey from Bath to Hopewell took over four hours, driving through Kingston and jumping on the T-3 highway (toll road) connecting Kingston to Ocho Rios on the north coast. We then traveled the A-1 highway along the north coast, known for its many, many resorts. By the time we reached Hopewell, nightfall had arrived and we were exhausted from the spa treatment and long drive. Jumping into bed was what we wanted most.

Next morning’s itinerary: a day trip to Negril for New Year’s Eve. My mom was expecting guests to ring in the new year, so we had to return by late afternoon. We drove through Lucea, where I lived before leaving Jamaica. Driving through town is always tricky because there’s one road that must be traversed to get in and out, and there’s always a bottleneck. Back in 1723 when the town was founded, they didn’t foresee automobiles or that there would be so many of them, so roads weren’t built wide enough nor have they been widened to acomodate the traffic.

For me, many landmarks remain intact. What was nice was showing the kids where I lived—though they had no interest, so we pressed on. Our journey took us to Negril in Westmoreland Parish, where we stopped at the famous Rick’s Café which recently celebrated its 50th year in operation.

What makes Rick’s Café special are the attractions: cliff diving, the pool, cabanas, food, music, incredible sunsets at the island’s westernmost point, and the vibe. It’s pure Jamaican magic.

We headed back, stopping at Margaritaville for a quick bite, then visited a friend staying at the newly built Princess Hotel and Resort—a new five-star resort in Green Island, Hanover. It was a short visit, but from what we observed, the property was simply spectacular. The over-water villas reminded me of the resorts of the Maldives. The rest of the property was fabulous, and the staff was extremely welcoming and accommodating.

Back at the house, guests started arriving—cousins, extended family, and friends all there to celebrate family and welcome the new year with joy and merriment. We got a chance to decompress at my mom’s home but left after a couple of days to check into our resort: Ocean Coral Springs, a five-star resort in Falmouth, Trelawny Parish.

The kids missed hanging out by the pool and longed for hotel amenities like getting Fruit Loops—which they know they can only have on vacation, so they took full advantage at every opportunity. They hung out at the kids club, the arcade, and the ice cream and coffee bar (no coffee for them, just hot chocolate and London Fog drinks).

We had an extended stay because I wanted to experience something extraordinary: the Accompong Town Maroon Festival, happening every year from January 5-6. This experience would prove to be one of the most culturally significant moments of my life.

Tags: #StThomas #BathFountain #Kingston #Hopewell #Hanover #MorantBay #PaulBogle #JamaicanHistory #NaturalHealing #RicksCafe #PrincessMangroves #Margueritaville #OceansCoralSprings #MaroonFestival