Every September I take a couple of weeks for myself. I tell people it’s to recharge before winter. What I actually do is fly somewhere remote and ride down things a lot steeper than anything at home.
This year it was mountain biking in the Sierra Nevada, on the south face, where the range drops toward the Mediterranean through a string of whitewashed villages. I booked with an outfit called Switch-Backs because it was remote and I’d never been. Bubión has a few hundred people. On a clear day you can see Africa.
The first trail was called Foreplay. It was a steep, polite little warm-up. The name was the rudest thing about it.
Getting to Bubión, and what you’re signing up for
Switch-Backs will collect you at Málaga airport, so in theory you can step off the plane and be in the mountains by dinner. I don’t trust airlines enough for that. I flew in a day early and booked an Airbnb near the airport, which is the least romantic sentence in this post and also the smartest decision I made all week.
It bought me a free day in Málaga. I walked the waterfront into downtown, past the port and a lot of palm trees, and stopped at more cafés than one person needs, ordering mostly by pointing. That was the last time for a while that I moved slowly on purpose.
Next morning I met the group at arrivals. There were five of us: four Brits and me, the token Canadian, all quietly checking out each other’s bike bags. Then came two hours in the van, climbing.
Home for the week was a house in the middle of the village. It had four bedrooms, two bathrooms, a kitchen, and a veranda that looks straight down the valley. That’s five riders to two bathrooms, so plan your mornings accordingly. If sharing a house with strangers who’ve spent the day sweating into knee pads isn’t for you, there’s a hotel nearby.
We built the bikes and went straight out for a shakedown ride, which is the polite term for finding out what the baggage handlers did to your bike.
The format is enduro. Switch-Backs calls it 80% lift-assisted, and here “lift” means a van. The van hauls you up, you ride down rocky, technical singletrack, and the van meets you at the bottom. That covers most of the up. The other 20% comes later, uphill, on foot, pushing a bike, and I’ll get to that.
The package covers accommodation, shuttles, and guides. Meals are on you, and bike rental is an add-on. E-bikes are available, but there aren’t many, so book early if you want one. Prices change by season, so check the Switch-Backs website for current packages.
Note: if you’re flying in from overseas, take the extra day in Málaga. Assembling a bike on jet lag in a stranger’s kitchen is nobody’s idea of a holiday.
What mountain biking in the Sierra Nevada actually feels like
The days start late, which I respect. The first van left at 9:30, so I had time for a coffee and a jamón sandwich on the veranda, looking down at the valley I’d spend the day riding into.
Foreplay set the tone: steep, but nothing that made me rethink my choices. After that, every run was different. One was loose rock through open wilderness. The next ran past farms and dropped you into a village. A lot of it is old Roman road and military path. The rest is track the Switch-Backs crew found and keeps clear so the mountain doesn’t swallow it back.
The villages are the part I still think about. Some descents go straight through them, down narrow streets between whitewashed walls, and it feels like a Red Bull urban downhill race minus the crowd barriers and the medical team. I came out the bottom of the first one grinning like an idiot.
After lunch we did more of the same. By dinner the group was loud, four Brits and a Canadian retelling every run as if the others hadn’t been there. The restaurants in Bubión serve home-cooked food made with local ingredients. I ordered paella and more jamón, which by then was less a meal choice than a personality.
Day three was coaching, which at a company called Switch-Backs meant, fittingly, switchbacks. The guides either ride ahead and show you the move, or ride behind and tell you what you did wrong. Both are useful, and the second is a little humbling. I worked on tight switchback turns and on picking the right line through rock. The trails I ride at home aren’t this steep, so this is exactly where I’m weakest, and the gaps showed up fast.
Note: take the coaching even if you think you don’t need it. Steep, rocky switchbacks punish habits that flatter you on gentler trails back home.
Day 4: Rest Day
After a few intense days of riding, a rest day was a welcome break. I spent the day exploring the three villages—Capileira, Pampaneira, and Bubión—by bike. Capileira, the highest of the three, offered stunning views, while Pampaneira’s charm made it a highlight of the day. The ride between them was a relaxing way to experience the local culture and scenery.
Day 5: What Goes Up Must Come Down
We started the day in Trevélez, a village famous for its Jamón. From there, we tackled a hike-a-bike over a mountain pass before hitting the “Flowtastic” trail, a thrilling downhill ride. The afternoon brought us to a technical gorge trail with challenging hike-a-bike sections. The heat radiating off the surrounding rocks added another layer of difficulty, but staying hydrated and taking breaks kept me going. The views were worth every effort.
Day 6: Sky to Sea
The final day was a grand finale: an all-day ride starting above the clouds at the mountain’s peak and ending at the sea. It was the perfect conclusion to an incredible week, leaving me with memories that will last a lifetime.
What to Pack
For riding:
- Knee and elbow pads (shin pads are also highly recommended).
- Helmet (full-face or open, depending on your preference).
- First aid kit, riding gear, and glasses.
Extras:
- Sunscreen, lip balm, water bottles, electrolytes, and comfortable clothes for after the ride.
There’s no need for anything fancy; the villages and restaurants are casual and biker-friendly.
This trip was everything I hoped for and more—stunning landscapes, thrilling rides, and the perfect blend of adventure and relaxation in a remote mountain paradise.
Thanks and Credits:
